Day 6

14 Dec 2012 Sat

You can tell the masters who are always one step ahead.

SP8 from Lao Cai pulled in  at Hanoi at 4.40am. Google-eyed, we lugged our luggage, disembarked from SP8 and headed for the taxis parked just steps off the rail tracks. As advised by the hotel, we only hopped up a green  Mai Linh taxi ( no 1229 ). What took us only 50 000 vnd to get to Hanoi station now cost us a princely 86 000 vnd to get back to Hanoi Diamond Holiday Hotel. It made a circuituous route round the lake, where we passed stately buildings and lakes. Could it be that the roads in  Hanoi are one-way  and the long drive a result of this? I could not help but think that we were ripped off  by the cabbie.

It was barely 5 am in the morning and there were no rooms available for check in yet. We sat at the lounge, totally exhausted from lack of sleep. The hotel staff woke up from their slumber and served us coffee, a nice touch. We jostled with a group of burly Russian tourists just back from Halong Bay for the use of the one and only toilet. It must have been a mucky trip back to Hanoi for them, because the guys took turns to shower while we waited for our much needed wash up.

Hoan Kiem Lake in the early morning

The Hoan Kiem Lake's ubiquitous red bridge

Temple at the lake

Blooms by the lake. Hanoi old quarter was devoid of flora and fauna except this area.

This man better get his balancing act correct or else he will get ripped off.

Tired of waiting, we walked towards Hoan Kiem Lake. The sun was barely out and we had precious moments of quiet not seen the days we were in Hanoi. The streets were empty but the Hanoians were early risers. In the crack of dawn, hawkers were already preparing for business, a scene from Singapore's past.

First light came when we reached the circus at Hoan Kiem Lake. We wondered aimlessly, pretending to take in the morning scene and ignoring our growling stomachs. Scores of elderly folks were doing their morning stunts ; badminton , tai chi, line dancing, balancing acts and sword fencing at any available space they could find. We were amazed a group of middle aged men playing chaptek in the middle of the road, demarcated by cross out lines, without incident. The crowd ranged from middle aged to old. From what we saw, we concluded that the majority of the people probably retired early in their sixties and spend their days exercising. If that is the case, I would like to spend my ( hubby's ) retirement years there too !

I love how the Hanoians drive. Despite the crazy traffic, this old man managed to hobble across the treaherous road unharmed.

Lake View Cafe pho , surprisingly delicious.

Finally at 7.30am when most cafes are opened, we got up to Lake View Café. We had a choice seat by the balcony, overlooking the lake. The weather was nippy but it was not something that a hot cup of coffee couldn't fix. We had quite a spread - Pho, porridge, toast ( $12 ) - with extremely friendly service. It was a stark contrast to the service rendered by staff of Bayview café just down the road. 

Although it was still early by Singapore standards, the city was already buzzing with life. The sound of traffic and the calls of selling near the Hoan Kiem Lake was rather mesmerizing, if one is not rushing for time. After buying our tickets for the water puppet show at the nearby Water Puppet theatre ( 30 000 vnd each ), we trooped over to the day market along Hang Buom. I bought a silk scarf for D  ( $5 ) , 2 embroidered pencil boxes which I suspected was made in China ( 40 000 vnd ) and paid up for H's dress which we had ordered to be tailored  earlier in the week ( $120 ). H girgirl was very pleased with her first silk dress which made us feel that it was all worth it!

Hanoi at work

Roses, anyone?

Discussing a good bargain

Mobile food kiosk

Vegetables on wheels

Vietnam, land of plenty

It was serious shopping day today and we continued our raid at the market.  At the market place, we bought a bag of giant custard apple ( 40 000 vnd ) because H girlgirl had never tried it and Vietnam tea ( 35 000 vnd ) with free sampling. Indeed we had busted our budget for the day.

 

Memorial House at Cao Go

Hard at work

Kitchen of memorial house

Memorial house courtyard

100 year old memorial house

Water puppets

Water puppets , boobs and all

The saving grace of the theater - opera singers

Wooden puppets display outside the theater

This dragon 'gave birth' to the Vietnamese

We rested after lunch to catch up on much needed sleep and to take a wallet break. Near evening, we donned our best and walked to the water puppet show. Scores of tourists ,including my rambunctious country men , watched the much publicized show.

The show started with a prelude bordering on pop and then it began with seizure inducing flashes to mimic lightning when a not so animated dragon appeared. Puppets emerged from the water stage and did their singe jointed dance. We had a hard time controlling our laughter seeing the expressionless puppets flip from left to right and making marching actions with their arms. As far as I could count, each puppet looked alike with only joints for shoulders.  I would appreciate Javanese shadow puppets more because even in the dark, the movements were much more animated.

I could not believe I paid US$10 for this bowl of noodles!

3 portions of the same thing for US$30. The worst rip off in Vietnam.

Fake Cha Ca La Vong. A tourist trap!

After the story of how mankind  descended from a giant egg and went on to live happily ever after in storyland, we searched for Cha Ca La Vong, the famous grilled fish restaurant. Instead we were lured to a 'fake' Cha Ca ( the real one was diagonally opposite ) where we had the most expensive dinner in Vietnam. For $30 , we had oily , tasteless fish with cold noodles in a dirty eating area. We should have suspected it was a tourist trap because there was not a single person in the restaurant. The last group before us left shortly after consulting the menu ( that has only one dish ).  I deemed it my fault for not doing prior research and identifying the correct place. The ripoff would put me off Cha Ca as long as I am in Vietnam!

The good and the bad ended and we retired to our new family room in Holiday Diamond Hotel. It was a better room than the last which we much appreciated - better water pressure, good drainage, quiet aircon and double glazed window. We needed a good rest because it would be a day long trip tomorrow to Hoa Lu and Tam Coc.